Thirty miles south of Lexington, just off I-75 in the foothills where Bluegrass Country meets Appalachia, the unique Berea College gives its 1500 mainly local students free tuition in return for work in any of 120 crafts, ranging from needlework to wrought ironwork. Founded in 1855 by abolitionists as a vocational college for the young people of East Kentucky - both white and black - it was forcefully shut down four years later by mobs opposed to the board's support for John Brown's raid at Harpers Ferry.

The college's reputation has attracted many private art and craft galleries to little BEREA . Free tours leave from Boone Tavern Hotel , a student-run hotel and restaurant at Main and Prospect streets (tel 859/986-9358, fax 859/985-3700, ; $75-100), and explore the campus and student craft workshops. The hotel includes a smoke-free dining room open to nonresidents and free admission to the college fitness center. If you're on a tight budget , Mario's Pizza , 636 Chestnut St (tel 606/986-2331), is a good option.